This year’s 2004 Riesling Maximum features two-thirds tiny-berried fruit from old vines in the Kogl and the rest from old vines in Heiligenstein. Lightly caramelized peach, peach pit and pungent florals waft from the glass. The palate impression is relatively full-bodied, but the fruit clear and bright. This finishes with enormous thrust, leaving persistent peach pit, toasted nuts, grapefruit zest, crushed stone, and bitter-sweet iris-like florality. For overall cling and concentration, this noses out Hiedler’s Gaisberg and Heiligenstein bottlings, but these thoroughbreds will all doubtless continue to jockey for position. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300