A site-typical concentration of fresh white peach, buddleia, iris, lime, and pungent mineral suggestions greets you from the glass of Bodenstein’s 2007 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten. This also displays the amazing, Achleiten-typical interplay of pit fruit, citrus, nut oils, and stony, savory, mysteriously pungent elements that taste as though they must have been mined from the earth. A certain cool restraint, yet amazing subtle length puts me in mind of the supernal 1997, once that wine hit its stride. I would expect 8-10 years of wonder. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Rich and zesty, with an enticing array of peach, apple and tropical fruit flavors that are powered by lip-smacking spice and cream notes. Very lush and plush. Drink now through 2012. 75 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add

A taut, terroir-driven wine that builds ripe fruits over the tight core of minerality. There is a youthful tang of orange zest over the sweet currants, while the acidity adds fresheness. This wonderful wine just needs aging; give it 5–6 years. Imported by Vin Divino.——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 95