At Fortediga results have been mixed thus far, but if the 2008 Cabernet-Syrah is any indication quality may very well be on the rise. Antonini seems to have backed off a bit on the super-ripe, concentrated, oak-driven approach of the past with his 2008 Cabernet-Syrah, a wine that reveals considerable richness and depth while maintaining a pure, crystalline quality in its dark, varietal fruit. This is 40% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 6 months in used French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012.Fortediga is a young property in Maremma owned by Alberto Antonini, who is best known for the many wines he oversees as one of Italy’s most sought-after consulting oenologists.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620