Kruger-Rumpf Munsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany

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The Rumpf’s 2010 Munsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett brims with grapefruit and pineapple, laced with the sage and mint that so often characterize wine from this site. Creamier in texture and even sweeter than the corresponding Kapellenberg, it’s less-typically Kabinett in balance, texture, or weight, finishing with a rounded, soothing but not especially refreshing impression. One could no doubt hold this for the better part of a decade, toward the end of which period a diminution of sheer sweetness might bring with it greater flavor interest and clarity. Stefan and Georg Rumpf’s 2010 collection was one of those, whose stubbornly-dry trocken Rieslings more than just occasionally tended toward an angularity, bitterness, and tartness that I doubt they will entirely outgrow. The Rumpfs de-acidified selectively, sometimes in must and sometimes to young wine. Skin contact was favored as a check on acids, though that may arguably have reinforced bitterness. Bottling times were pushed back by about a month, though in the context of such late harvest that means essentially the usual length of elevage. Incidentally, I found the Rumpf’s two 2009 Spatburgunder bottlings to have been diminished by the quality of barriques employed and/or the wine’s length of exposure to wood, specifically by faintly rancid overtones and a tendency toward drying in the finish.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Juicy, with good cut to the baked apple, white cherry and berry flavors. Interesting notes of white chocolate join the mix as well, extending on the rich finish. Drink now through 2020. 150 cases made.??–KM??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add