This is DeLille’s ultra-premium Bordeaux blend, a dense, complex, luxurious red wine composed of fruit from Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval and Boushey—three of the best vineyards in Washington. A lush bouquet of fresh fruits, spices, chocolate, coffee, leather and sweet vanilla gets things rolling. The wine is generous to a fault, with layers of expressive, tangy fruit, smoky oak and soft tannins. Not quite as ripe as the ’98, it is perfectly balanced and cellar-worthy for at least a decade. Cellar Selection. ——P.G.(6/1/2002)—— 91