Lead pencil shavings and candied black fruits are found in the nose of the 2002 Chaleur Estate (red). An exceptional wine, it is medium to full-bodied, thick, hugely concentrated, and powerful. Its inky, tarry core of fruit displays waves of cassis and blackberry liqueur as well as copious quantities of ripe tannin. I’m convinced this effort will shut down soon before roaring back with a vengeance in a few years, when the tannin has melted into the fruit. Projected maturity: 2012-2025. Tel. (425) 489-0544; www.delillecellars.com