The 2003 Chardonnay Cahill Lane exhibits crisp acidity along with orange rind, lemon oil, and buttered hazelnut characteristics reminiscent of a premier cru Meursault. With marvelous acidity, precision, and a long finish, it should drink well for 3-4 years. One of northern California’s “good guys” is undeniably Stephen Hansel, who fashions top-quality Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Tom Rochioli first brought these wines to my attention, and Hansel is now one of my reference point visits in the North Coast. Known locally as a major car dealer, Hansel founded the winery in 1978 and now owns over 80 acres under vine. These are all noteworthy cuvees that remain somewhat under the radar. Moreover, prices remain unbelievably fair for wines of such quality. Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310