Tempe says ripeness was imperfect in 2004, which might explain in part the unusually high acidity and bright cast of his 2004 Gewurztraminer Zellenberg. That in itself is admirable, but the wine is also much-marked by botrytis, resulting in a faintly drying finishing spot. Aromas of peppermint and celery seed segue into an herb-saturated, subtly sweet, juicy palate, and a finish of undeniable concentration. A 2004 Gewurztraminer–Pinot Gris blend from the Rodelsberg, above the Mambourg suffered somewhat more from drying and bitterness on account of botrytis and alcohol (nor was the 2005 version of that wine cooperating when I tasted it from barrel). I found no group of wines I tasted this year in Alsace more challenging to assess than those of vinous adventurer Marc Tempe, whom some critics call an iconoclast and others a reactionary. He bottled his first wines in 1995, and has been working biodynamically for a decade. These wines ferment longer (without cultured yeast additions – Tempe’s aim is to “work as naturally as possible”) and reside in fuder or barriques longer (generally 2-3 years) than any others I know of in Alsace today. Malolactic fermentation generally takes place, although Tempe doesn’t force it, and as he hastens to point out, he works at yield and ripeness levels that have in recent years proved pretty inhospitable to malic acid! Tempe likes botrytis for the complexity it adds even in dry wines. Add to all of the above considerations a penchant for minimal if any doses of sulfur and you often have wines that – while in some sense “slow moving” – are not easy targets to capture in a momentary tasting note. I have therefore only published notes or scores on wines whose personalities I felt capable of grasping on the occasion of my visit, which naturally also meant wines far enough along in fermentation than were many of his 2005s.Importer: Vintage 59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218.