Aromatically, the medium-bodied 1997 Pinot Gris Zellberg displays sun-baked gravel. This wine, which was bottled unfined and unfiltered, has outstanding breadth and richness. It is extremely spicy, loaded with smoky white fruits, concentrated, and boasts a velvety texture. Projected maturity: now-2007. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.