An outstanding effort is Hartford's 1999 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard (350 cases). Produced from 80-year old head-pruned vines, it exhibits boysenberry and blackberry fruit, along with pepper notes. This soft, velvety-textured, elegant (if that word can be attributed to a wine with 15.7% alcohol) offering possesses zesty underlying acidity, ripe tannin, and a big, fleshy mouthfeel with no hard edges. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 887-1532