Both Morey St.-Denis premier crus are superb. The saturated dark ruby/purple-colored Morey St.-Denis Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes displays even more structure, higher flavor extraction, great fruit, balance, and length. This big, powerful, muscular wine should hit its prime by 1998 and drink well for a decade thereafter.
Along with the wines from Domaine Leroy, Domaine Maurice and Claude Dugat, and Domaine Ponsot, the other unequivocal great successes in 1993 are the wines of Hubert Lignier. His wines are atypically super-concentrated, powerful, rich, sweet, expansive red Burgundies that exhibit the structure, but none of the harsh tannins of many 1993s. Moreover, they possess layers of highly extracted, rich, creamy fruit that could only have come from physiologically ripe grapes and low yields.
Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, New York, NY; tel. (212) 249-6650
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