The super-concentrated 1990 La Mouline is closer in style to the other-worldly 1988 than I would have thought. Extremely rich, with a huge, bacon fat, toasty, cassis, and floral-scented nose, as well as phenomenally rich flavors, it is a wine known for its voluptuousness and extraordinary intensity. This amazing wine should drink well for 20+ years. The 1990 single vineyard Cote Roties, which were released this spring, are the Cote Roties of the vintage. 1990 was not an easy year in this appellation because of the severe drought and heat wave that stressed the vineyards. As I have said previously, 1991 and 1989 are consistently better years for most of the Cote Rotie producers. However, Guigal has turned in exceptional efforts with its three single vineyard wines. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644

Irresistible. This lush, concentrated wine is spilling over with gorgeous raspberry, floral, toast and smoke flavors; it's intense, lively and long. Delicious now.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. Best after 2000. 500 cases made. -TM