The legendary Mouchao, one of Portugal’s most revered wines, has finally made it to this country. Made in traditional open stone fermenters, this is not a modern wine. It’s a wine, whose dark tannins and dense fruits demand attention and time. At this stage—six years in—it remains a baby, but in another five years, it will start to be a great wine, one that will show a hedonistic mix of power and beauty.——R.V.(7/1/2008)—— 95