Starts out a bit short and flat, with a bouquet housing basic Chardonnay aromas of pear, apple and oak. The palate is more or less similar, with apple and melon flavors spreading wide across the mouth. But where’s the precision and zest? Those key qualities, which we’ve previously lauded in this wine, are not entirely on vacation but they’re not fully evident either. ——M.S.(12/31/2006)—— 87