The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau comes from 30- to 40-year-old vines. It has a simple red cherry and crushed strawberry-scented nose that is nicely composed and understated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a keen line of acidity, but it needs a little more substance on the finish that feels just a little "lightweight" compared to the superior Crepiots. Hopefully it will fill out by the time of bottling.