Readers looking for a big, serious, dense red with lots of layers as well as copious black and blue fruits with nicely integrated wood should check out the 2001 Syrah Wildcat Mountain. A big, plump, opulent, dense offering with no hard edges, it will drink well for 7-8 years.Tel. (707) 996-4480

Here is cool-climate Syrah. There is a white pepper aroma that leaps from the glass, and the acids and tannins are much more pronounced. Yet there are also underlying blackberry and plum flavors that are rich, ripe and dense. The wonderful structure and finesse is easily worth the price. ——S.H.(5/1/2004)—— 93