Here’s a vintage-driven wine that needs the right conditions to succeed, which 2006 provided with its long, cool hangtime. The fruit has ripened to perfection, offering deep flavor notes of blackberries and raspberries. But there are also exotic and delicious notes of bacon, mocha and cola with a blast of black pepper throughout. The wine is full-bodied and dense in tannins, impressive from start to finish. Great now, and should age for 4–6 years.——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 94