Very big, very rich, almost a fruit store in itself. Offers a wild ride of intensely ripe, extracted cherries, currants, blackberries and blueberries that taste like jam spread on buttery toast, then sprinkled with cinnamon and cocoa. Also fairly tannic and full-bodied. Lacks some delicacy, but delicious and dramatic.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 91