Displaying a sublime explosion of intense candied white flower aromas, the Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes (1995 produced 175 cases, and 1996 a whopping 400 cases!) has a silky texture, and a huge burst of sweet floral fruits complemented by a judicious use of oak. This superb and refined, medium-to-full-bodied wine should drink well young yet age for 10+ years. This is one of the most profound Pulignys I have tasted.
This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Ratings with a range of scores in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.
The wines at the domaine are made by Meursault's Pierre Morey. I was impressed with the relationship he has with Madame Leflaive. The two openly share their thoughts, completely respecting each other's opinions. In most cellars there is an obviously dominant player, but at Domaine Leflaive it is a team effort. The wines spend on average 11 months in oak before being placed in stainless steel tanks for another 7 to 9 months (the Montrachet is never removed from oak). The domaine averaged 25 hectoliters/hectare in 1995 - less than 2 tons of fruit per acre.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.
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