The Knoll 2007 Riesling Smaragd Schutt smells of tangerine, lemon oil, white peach, along with pungent suggestions of quarry dust. Glossy in texture, rich in ripe orchard fruitiness, and brightly citric, this sassy yet seductive wine finishes long on peach, nut oils, and luscious, diverse citrus, accented by cyanic peach pit, white pepper, and crushed stone. A superbly concentrated Schutt, it should merit at least 7-9 years’ cellaring. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

This is Knoll’s flagship wine, from the Durnstein Schutt vineyard. It is powerful, intense stuff, a roll-call of ripe flavors, even in the difficult 2007 vintage. The wine brings out spice, yellow fruits, fresh apple skins and peppered grapefruit. The extra element is the complexity that goes deep into flavors that need to develop over several years.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 93