The newest vintage of Voge's sparkling wine, the 2016 Saint Peray les Bulles d'Alain is now made without any dosage. The nose is tight and restrained, but it's not as toasty as expected after four years en tirage, with hints of Marsanne's "white paste" character and citrus. Round in the mouth but fully dry, with a long, harmonious finish, it's a nice change of pace.