Far superior is the 2008 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Block UU. This is a seriously endowed effort displaying notes of lemon and orange blossom, spice, and subtle background earth, medium to full body, plenty of minerality and acidity, and a long finish. Drink this impressive Chardonnay between now and 2016. This is one of my favorite wineries in Santa Maria. Proprietors Bill Wathen and Dick Dore have been making wines at Foxen since 1985. There is some serious history as well, as one of Dick Dore’s ancestors was a retired English sea captain who settled in Santa Barbara in the early 1800s, hence the nautical symbols embedded in the labels. Foxen is one of the few wineries in California that has not abandoned one of the best grapes in the world, Chenin Blanc. This grape can produce wonderful wines from this region when handled properly. Four brilliant Pinot Noirs have emerged from Foxen in what could have been a very challenging vintage. These are some of the best examples of Pinot Noir I tasted from this vintage. P.S. All of these wines from Bill Wathen and Dick Dore are bottled “delicately,” without fining or filtration. Tel. (805) 937-4251

Brings Foxen’s usual steely, dry, minerally approach to Chardonnay, which makes for a more versatile, elegant wine. It’s bone dry, while high acidity makes the mouth water, but the austerity is relieved by the ripeness of the citrus, peach and apple fruit. Should develop through 2013, becoming creamier and nuttier.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 91