The limited production, super-ripe 1998 La Ricolma IGT (100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak) exhibits huge tannin (not surprising given the vintage) along with equally massive concentration of fruit and extract. It is powerful, dense, and palate-staining. The sweet French oak is well-displayed in the aromas of espresso, black cherries, caramel, and smoke. This 1998 needs 2-3 years of cellaring, and should last for two decades. My only concern is that the tannin may never be fully absorbed, but only time will tell. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411