The 2004 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio is a tremendous wine and one of the true standouts in this retrospective spanning back to the 1923 vintage. It's so rewarding when you catch Vin Santo just as it embraces those first signs of aging. It crosses that magic threshold between primary fruit flavors and evolved complexity. This wine hits that sweet spot with bull's-eye precision. The bouquet offers many unexpected aromas, such as dried fruit, maple syrup, porcini mushroom and dried tobacco leaf. This Vin Santo opens to a deeper amber color (compared to the younger vintages) and it shows slow, glycerin-rich movements as you swirl the glass. This is a beautiful expression with earthy layers to add to the smoke, mineral and other delicate aromas that emerge from the bouquet. Silky sweetness wraps smoothly over the long finish.