Oded Shakked is the winemaker at J and this is his own label. Wth this wine he shows he likes the peppery Syrahs of the Northern Rhone. The flavors are as good as anything you’ll find in California, with plums and white pepper and a just-right overlay of oak. The acidity this vintage is a little too soft, but the elegance almost makes you not notice. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 91