There’s a baked, roti quality to the aroma of this wine, suggesting the crust of a fresh cherry pie, with the cherry filling flavors accented by vanilla and cinnamon and even a drizzle of creme de cassis. It’s a very decadent beverage. Who could have dreamed California Pinot could taste this good? On the other hand, the very size will intimidate chefs. Where is this monster style of Pinot Noir going? Stay tuned. ——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 93