The 1999 VDP d'Orange is a fruit-driven, gorgeous effort that can be purchased for a song. It offers notes of orange rind, blackberry fruit, chocolate, and smoke in an uncomplicated but gorgeously plump, fat, juicy style. It will not make old bones, but who can resist drinking it over the next 2-3 years? This is a brilliant effort from one of the Rhone's most accomplished young winemakers. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949