The 2007 Touriga Nacional has been seen a couple of times, but not for seven or eight years. The benchmark wine for Vallado in this vintage was the Reserva (which showed brilliantly in a vertical about two years back). I was never quite as convinced by this Touriga, but this is showing nicely. In fact, it seems to have finally developed. It's a fairly ripe Touriga with a touch of flamboyance on the flavor profile, suggesting some lightly baked blueberries on the finish. It seems concentrated, but not thick or clumsy. More importantly, it is fully open now. It hardly seems like the same wine at times. It still projects understatement, as it is smooth and harmonious. The tannins have fallen off. There isn’t a lot of firmness on the finish, and its future is still at issue. It seems every time I look at it, I’m wondering what the future will be. That’s because I’m never sure there will be much of one. I’m surprised it has held this well. At this point, it has a shot at making 20 years in pretty good shape. It is the expressiveness, though, that makes this more impressive today, not the structure. It certainly deserves an extension of the drinking window, but I’d also say that this is its peak moment. I don’t think it will improve more, and it has some risk of decline, no matter how long it theoretically holds past the new drinking window. It certainly won't fall off the table, but it lacks the structure to keep improving. This is the moment. Don't expect great improvement if you keep holding it. The risk will be greater than the reward.

The 2007 TOURIGA NACIONAL was fermented in stainless steel and age in French oak barriques. It is smooth and attractive, although far too laced with vanilla notes at the moment, the oakiest of the lineup reviewed this issue. Medium bodied, it has a nice supporting backbone, although the tannins are relatively ripe. Bright and elegant, it should drink nicely young. Drink 2010-2017. There were 2,250 six-bottle cases produced. There are some price drops here over listed prices last year. The Touriga Nacional in particular has dropped dramatically. Marketing continues to be an unpredictable activity in this economy and with these exchange rates. On another note, I’ve liked what I’ve seen in Vallado whites up until now, but with the 2008 releases, they seem to be laying a claim to becoming one of the better white producers in the Douro. They take it seriously—and it shows. The winery has also rebounded nicely from the 2006 off vintage this year.Importer: Quintessential, 1932 Sierra Avenue, Napa, CA 94558 (707) 226-8300.

Broadened by spicy wood, this is a smooth, rich and opulent wine. It has sweet plum and black cherry flavors to go with its dense texture. There is a light sprinkling of pepper to go with the grated nutmeg and powerful core of tannins. For aging 5–6 years and more.——R.V.(8/1/2010)—— 91