Appealing apple, floral and mineral aromas open this young, racy wine. It’s crisp, with a slightly spritzy citrus and slate palate, and it stays that way, closing long with chalky hints. It’s not finely nuanced, but it’s refreshing, lean and angular, with the acidity to improve for a year or two. Best Buy. ——M.M.(2/1/2002)—— 87