A sweet, spicy profusion of cinnamon, ginger, cocoa powder, lily perfume, maraschino, and kirsch soars from the glass of Rouget 2006 Echezeaux, which comes to the palate with unexpected depth and richness of roasted meats, chalk, and saline savor, though to be sure, the bright red fruits and spices never flag. This is positively vibratory as well as riveting in its dynamic, oscillating finishing complexity. I'd give it 3-4 years head start and then plan to follow it for another decade. Emmanuel Rouget was very pleased with the "unusually long evolution" of his youthful 2006s – which I last tasted on the eve of bottling – rendered possible not just by the frigid temperature of his relatively shallow cellars, he explained, but also by what for this vintage are impressively low pHs. Even after slight chaptalization, he says the present collection scarcely exceeds 13% alcohol. These factors no doubt help account for the balance of ripe flavors and textural polish with cut and vivacity that the 2006s here display, rendering them – as Rouget puts it – "more precise, fresh, and elegant" than his 2005s, in which respect they remind him of his 1996s. "If you compare them directly today, my 2005s almost taste heavy by comparison with these 2006s," he notes. Moreover, my own impression is that the current crop of wines has proven more resistant to the same levels of new oak – 50-100% – as were used on his 2005s (whereas the 2004s received nada). "I think that impression is on account of the acidity," of the 2006s, opines Rouget, adding "for me the acidity of Pinot is more important than the alcohol. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400