The 2007 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard boasts tremendous length and purity. I especially like the intensity of the fruit here. Dark red fruit, licorice, leather and tobacco flesh out on a firm yet balanced finish supported by insistent veins of salinity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Interestingly, Steve Clifton takes an entirely different approach with Palmina than he does at Brewer-Clifton. Whereas the Brewer-Clifton wines are much more technical and controlled in their precision, at Palmina, Clifton favors natural yeasts and follows a more hands-off approach. Clifton is equally adept with both styles, something that says a lot about his natural talent. Nebbiolo is one the Palmina specialties. As good as the Palmina Nebbioli can be, my fear is that some of these wines will ultimately prove to have very narrow drinking windows. The Nebbioli clearly need time in barrel for the tannins to soften, but by the time they do, the aromas are often quite forward. Tel. (805) 735-2030, www.palminawines.com