Aims for the fences with ripe fruit, and certainly with oak. In fact the barrels dominate, giving peppery, spicy, vanilla notes and that unmistakable oaky flavor. It’s a pretty wine, and a big one, but you wish they’d let the fruit speak for itself. Still, it will impress a lot of people. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 87