The 2009 Chardonnay Amphitheater Block emerges from the glass with layers of fruit. It shows gorgeous up-front richness, then finds its center of minerality on the mid-palate. It is a large-scaled, beautifully balanced wine loaded with personality. Smoke, minerals and citrus linger on the multi-dimensional, saline finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. These three Chardonnays from Jim and Bob Varner are made from three blocks the Varners planted in the early 1980s in the Portola Valley. They are fairly large-scaled wines that at the same time retain considerable minerality and structure in a style that is distinctive of the Santa Cruz Mountains, but that stands apart from the lusher, oakier style of wine many people associate as typical of California Chardonnay. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts and stay on their lees in barrel with no rackings until they are prepared for bottling. The 2009 Chardonnays are big, imposing wines. Nevertheless, my instincts say they will offer their best drinking before age 10 or so. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these majestic Chardonnays. Unfortunately the 2009 Pinots had just been bottled and I was not able to taste them. Tel. (650) 321-4894; www.varnerwine.com