The 2003 Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch is cut from the same mold as the 2002, with a bit more orange peel and tropical fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity but not the weight and overall headiness and complexity of the 2002, nevertheless it is still a stunning California Chardonnay to drink over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

No malolactic fermentation makes this wine very acidic in feeling, with a fresh, green apple crispness. The flavors veer towards apples, limes and Meyer lemons, with complexities of mango and apricot. It’s a very intense wine, and a notably good one. One sip is not enough. A bottle may be. ——S.H.(10/1/2005)—— 93