In an irregular year for North Coast Chardonnay, Shafer’s 2008 Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch is a winner. Elegant notes of orange blossoms, nectarines, pears and honeysuckle jump from the glass of this crisp, medium-bodied, richly fruity wine. Fresh, lively and flavorful, this impressive Chardonnay can be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. While still renowned for their portfolio of classic world-class reds, Shafer also turns out a terrific non-malolactic Chardonnay from the Red Shoulder Ranch. The only dramatic change made over recent years is that instead of 100% being barrel-fermented and oak-aged, 25% is now aged in stainless steel which has added freshness and possibly longevity. Introduced several years ago, the Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five cuvee is aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. It is meant to be a reference point Cabernet from Stags Leap priced lower than Shafer’s limited production, usually monumental Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon. Shafer’s flagship offering is their monumental Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select (about 2,000 cases produced). Always 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for at least 30 months in oak, this is one of Napa’s most profound wines. Since 1999, Shafer has made a Syrah/Petite Sirah blend (usually 80% of the former and 20% of the latter) aged 32 months in 100% new French oak. The first vintage, the 1999 Relentless, which they opened at the winery to show how well it is aging, is still a baby at age 11. I rated it 96 points, which is higher than the 93 points I gave it in 2002. So much for California Syrah not aging well! The 1999 is still intense with a plum color and lots of grilled meat, herb, licorice and spice characteristics. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

After many years of cult stardom, Shafer’s Red Shoulder Ranch still rules. It performs the difficult feat of combining powerful richness with dry elegance. The pineapple, Meyer lemon and kaffir lime flavors are undergirded with a steely mineralty, while oak and lees add rich tiers of interest. The 2008 is tarter than usual, making it a good foil against lobster risotto or grilled salmon with a tropical fruit salsa topping. ——S.H.(10/1/2010)—— 93