The 1996 Cote Rotie La Landonne may merit an outstanding score if the tannin melts away without a proportional loss of fruit. The wine was backward and closed when I tasted it in late fall, 1998. The wine's dark ruby color with purple nuances is followed by reticent aromas of smoke, roasted meat, earthy iron, and herb notes. It is sweet on the attack, with excellent length, medium to full body, and a boat-load of tannin. While the tannin gives the wine good grip, it also is cause for concern about the wine's equilibrium. My instincts suggest it will be fine, but it requires 3-4 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2015. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524