Domaine Marcel Deiss Riesling Schoenenbourg Selection de Grains Nobles, Alsace Grand Cru, France

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Riesling is king at Domaine Marcel Deiss. I tasted seven totally distinct Rieslings with Deiss. Deiss's 1994 Riesling Schoenenberg SGN comes across as one of the drier Selection de Grains Nobles offerings, largely because of its potent acidity. This wine contains 80 grams of residual sugar, and while that might suggest a thick, cloyingly sweet dessert wine, it is more akin to an off-dry wine. While it possesses awesome length, as well as spectacular purity and richness, it requires 8-10 years of cellaring. Don't be surprised if this wine lasts for 40+ years ... an immortal Riesling.Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579