Hints of smoked meats and peonies mingle with aromas of red berries and loamy soil, introducing the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois, a medium to full-bodied, delicately fleshy wine that's built around lively acids and powdery tannins, concluding with a sapid finish. This is a touch more introverted and reserved than Le Clos this year, and it will reward at least a modicum of bottle age.