The 2005 Shiraz “Bad Impersonator” was sourced from a single vineyard and aged in French oak, 20% new. It offers a bouquet of cedar, spice box, pepper, clove, and blueberry. This leads to a layered wine with excellent depth, silky tannins, fine balance and even some elegance. Drink this lengthy, fruit-filled wine over the next 6 years. Two Hands is a negociant operation run impeccably by Michael Twelftree. It reflects the best that can be sourced from all over South Australia. The packaging provides some serious design competition to Dan Philips’ Grateful Palate and R Wines portfolio. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com; Also tasted: 2007 Riesling “The Wolf” (82)

An elegant, medium-bodied Shiraz, with aromas and flavors of red berries and a hint of red peppercorn. Peppery in flavor, yet with smooth, supple tannins. Drink now.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 87