Readers looking for a low alcohol, non-malolactic, stainless steel-fermented and aged, light-bodied white made from the indigenous Airen grape (with 5% Sauvignon Blanc) should check out the 2004 Ercavio Blanco. This crisp, perfumed, fresh, lively effort is meant to be consumed over the next 6-12 months. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565