From one of the appellations prime terroirs, where the Buisson family owns a 2.5-hectare parcel, the 2017 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle wafts from the glass with notes of pear, white flowers, ripe lemons, yuzu and almond paste. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with good concentration, succulent acids and a delicately saline finish. With its old vines and soils somewhat richer in clay, this is frequently the Buissons' finest white Saint-Romain, and that appears to be the case in 2017.