The Buisson brothers' 2018 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle has turned out brilliantly, wafting from the glass with notes of mandarin, crisp Anjou pear, freshly baked bread and green apple. Medium to full-bodied and satiny but incisive, it's deep and complete, with racy acids, fine concentration and a long, elegantly mineral finish. Tightly wound, this should blossom with a year or two in bottle. It's one of the finest wines I've ever tasted from Saint-Romain.