The Gassmann 2007 Auxerrois Moenchreben offers luscious, heliotrope- and lily-garlanded honeydew and musk melon tinged with mint and tangerine rind; a rich, honeyed, yet buoyant palate; and outstanding retention of primary juiciness and refreshment. As so often at this address, a seemingly heavy load of (40 grams) residual sugar translates into sweetness to be sure, but not to the extent you would anticipate, and not to the detriment of the wine’s almost irresistibly luscious finish. (What to drink Gassmann wines like this with is for me a legitimate question; not only because of their sheer sweetness but on account of the particularly self-contained sort of satisfaction they in my experience deliver.) Expect to enjoy this for up to a decade, toward the end of which the sense of sweetness is apt to moderate at least marginally. The 2000, incidentally, was on the winery price list in late 2008, although the decidedly low-acid 2005 was being offered simultaneously. One doesn’t expect – even in the marathon that constitutes a tasting of Rolly-Gassmann collections – to encounter more than a few dry-tasting wines, and in 2006 and 2007 that number was vanishingly small. These wines generally manage their residual sugar without obscuring vineyard-specific characteristics or fatiguing the palate, and furthermore botrytis – where present – is typically noble and pure. In 2006, though – with rampant botrytis and block-picking the order of the day rather than selection (for which there was no time) – results sometimes defied those generalizations. Echoing an opinion that I have seen borne out in recent borderline over-ripe vintages in Burgundy as well, Pierre Gassmann insists that “contrary to what the enologists advised, you needed to work with the lees just as long in 2006 as in any other vintage,” and his bottling times were, as usual, in September. As for 2007, it is the occasion for a group of the most promising young Rieslings I have tasted here since my first visit 25 years ago. There has been a significant recent increase in acreage, incidentally, thanks to the recent absorption of property from a cousin. A labeling development worth noting: the names of the appropriate village are now being appended to each single vineyard wine; however, I have continued to reference only the name of the site, as in past reports. Finally, readers must bear in mind the slow pace of Rolly-Gassmann releases, with even their non-noble 2007s expected to appear only between now and 2012.Importers include Vin de Garde Wines Ltd., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 224 2470; Esquin Imports Inc., San Anselmo, CA (415) 451 2520; and a Bryce McNamee Selection, Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA (914) 954 6583