The 1994 Gewurztraminer Bergheim Vendange Tardive exhibits an interesting quince, mineral, curranty-scented nose, a light golden color, high acidity, and an oily texture, but Gewurztraminer's typicity is muted - intentionally, according to Deiss. Full-bodied and dry, it finishes with surprising tannin, a characteristic that often explains the bitterness found in some highly-extracted Gewurztraminers. It should age well for 5-7 years.Marcel Deiss's Gewurztraminers are excellent, well-made wines, but it is obvious that Gewurztraminer is his least favorite varietal. For Deiss, Gewurztraminer is just too full-blown and ostentatious to get excited.Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579