For starters, the 2009 Vacqueyras Les Hauts de Castellas is a Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre blend aged in wood barrels for 12 months that exhibits classic Provencal characteristics of garrigue, lavender, pepper, kirsch and spice. Big, chewy, robust, exuberant, pure and medium to full-bodied with silky tannins, it should drink well for 5-6 years. (Not yet released) This is a well-run large cooperative in Vacqueyras that admirably displays the talent involved. I tasted a dozen separate cuvees from this operation and six of them were potentially outstanding. Most of the others were competent, correct wines. This huge cooperative controls over 1,100 acres in Vacqueyras, and the wines are realistically priced for such high quality. The following six wines should change the mind of anyone with an anti-cooperative prejudice. Importers: Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392-5640; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (800) 597-1491