This estate has always accomplished impressive things with Chardonnay. Their newest offering is a Mountain Estate Vineyard Chardonnay fashioned from some of the newer Burgundian Dijon Clones along with California’s Old Wente Clone. Also very good, but not as expressive as its younger sibling, the 2004 Chardonnay Mountain Estate Vineyard reveals aromas of lemon oil, apricots, white peaches, and spring flowers in its elegant, medium-bodied, nicely concentrated personality. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years. Previously recommended: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Coach Insignia (90), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard (90+), 2003 Cameron (89+), 2003 Chardonnay Mountain Estate Vineyard (92). Tel. (707) 539-7511; Fax (707) 539-3601

Napa-based Fisher has a new Chardonnay vineyard in Sonoma, 1,300 feet up, and these Dijon clones have produced an intense wine. The grapes were picked very ripe, and the wine is huge in pear and creme brulee flavors, with zesty acidity. Impressive for its size and interest. You keep reaching for another glass.——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 92