The estate's 2003 Grattamacco is clearly a product of a much less favorable vintage. It reveals over-ripe, candied aromatics along with a sweet, full-bodied personality. Notes of underbrush, scorched earth, and smoke develop in the glass, but ultimately the wine's balance is dominated by the astringent, rough-around-the-edges tannins that are typical of the 2003s. Bottle age is unlikely to help in a meaningful way. Grattamacco spent 18 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. This is a gorgeous set of wines from one of Bolgheri's historic estates. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725