The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate is more deeply colored with aromas of toasty oak, earth, black cherry, blackberry, and a hint of chocolate. Firm but just a bit lean, it requires several years of cellaring to round out making it a bit of a gamble. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Though a bit pricier than its stable mate, the Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, this Cabernet brings the same sort of fragrant, tightly sculpted fruit to bear. Black cherry, blackberry, black coffee and other sensuous flavors are crafted into a seamless, substantial wine that perfectly marries fruit, earth and herbal notes. Clean acids and lightly chewy tannins contribute further depth and texture.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90