Surprisingly, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard is even better than the 2002. An inky/purple color is followed by a fabulously complex bouquet of licorice, creme de cassis, espresso roast, and spice box. Full-bodied, ripe, and concentrated, with sweet tannin, it can be drunk now or cellared for 15+ years. A new project of Juan Marcado, a former winemaker at Pax, and Mike Heiby, a former assistant winemaker at Behrens and Hitchcock, the Realm wines are produced at a winery on Spring Mountain. Classic Burgundian techniques are used to make these Bordeaux-styled offerings, including a 5-day pre-fermentation cold soak, extended maceration, some lees stirring, minimal racking, 20+ months in 100% new French oak, and no filtration at bottling. Some of the Realm production was stored in the Mare Island wine warehouse, which caught fire last October, but, hopefully, none of these cuvees were in that facility. P.S. Like most high quality newcomers to the California wine scene, this estate demonstrates little modesty with respect to their pricing policy. Distributed by Polaner Selections; Tel. (914) 244-0404