This year (unlike last) the weather cooperated at the lightest end of the stylistic spectrum, and we that, is, the few consumers with access to it in Europe, have a delightfully refreshing 2007 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten from Hirzberger, more than fit for immediate consumption. A cooling melange of melon, herbs, and lentil, with a summer squash-like palate impression thanks to sweet vegetable flavors and a waxy texture, this finishes with an invigoratingly saline tang. This Steinfeder was a product of Auslese in mid-Setpember. The “real” harvest began only a month later. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700